Rome Guide: Tried and tested by me & my Roman boyfriend
What and where to eat, vintage shop and explore - not like a tourist, but a true Roman
No one wants to see a city like a tourist, they want to experience it like a local (a true Roman, of course!).
Rome has become my second home in Italy (after Tuscany), and as an Aussie girl it feels unbelievably exciting to say. Honestly, sometimes I feel like I’m making it all up. For a non-Roman, I’d say I know the city pretty well - the perks of having a Roman boyfriend as your personal guide ;)
Every girls’ Lizzie McGuire fantasy?!
Rome is big and touristy, which can make finding the most delicious, authentic spots where you will find other Romans actually going to a challenge. (That’s why I’m here!) That said, Rome is famous for a reason, so seeing some of the touristy sites, like the Vatican, is absolutely worth it.
Not your typical guide—I’m skipping the overrated, touristy spots that usually disappoint and, instead, will change your life by introducing you to crostata di visciole and mozzarella di bufala. Here’s my guide to Rome - one of Italy’s most iconic and romantic cities - tried and test by moi (and my Roman boyfriend).
Enjoy, you hungry thing!
Dining / food:
My favourite activity, & baby, does Rome deliver!
The Jewish Quarter/ Roman Ghetto: One of my absolute favourite places to eat in Rome. Mixing romanticism, culture, and history with its cobblestone streets, iconic European alfresco dining & the ruins of the enormous ancient Portico d’Ottavia as its backdrop. Here you will find: My favourite Italian dessert, crostata di visciole, a tart filled with ricotta & wild cherries. I’m not kidding when I say I eat this every time I’m in Rome. You can & should, eat the softest & tastiest lamb of your life, cooked with rosemary, garlic and oil. It’s controversial & not for everyone, but I love it, trippa alla romana. Tripe in a tomato sauce with mint. If you’re a fan of tripe or a foodie, please don’t be scared & give it a go.
Bonci: A very famous pizza bakery, & for good reason. It’s crazy delicious. Get some takeaway pizza slices with something fried like suppli, an arancini style ball filled with beef. It’s Roman style pizza so it has a thinner base than Neapolitan pizza.
Mercato Testaccio: You’ll most likely feel overwhelmed for choice by all the delicious food, followed by mild anxiety by the 45 minute wait time because every Italian is also here for lunch. There’s a cute wine bar, pizza, pasta, all the usual delicious Italian fare. You can try a picchiapò sandwhich, literally meaning ‘a little beat up’, a Roman sandwhich with slow cooked beef, tomato, onion & herbs. Yum.
Beppe E I Suoi Formaggi: “Beppe & His Cheeses”. A not-so-traditional Italian cheese/ wine bar with a funky wine list. The fondue is amazing & the robiola is a must! An Italian soft-cheese baked in parchment with pears & walnuts. Eat it with punatrelle for some freshness - a kind of salad made from the stems of cicoria served with vinegar & anchovies - & wash it all down with a glass of grappa. Yum.
Il Maritozzaro: A well known spot in Trastevere for maritozzo - an iconic Roman dessert of sweet bread filled with whipped cream. So, so good.
Il Bocconcino: This place isn’t in the centre of Rome but I have to mention it because you have not had mozzarella until you have had THIS mozzarella. Especially if you’re Australian. Made from buffalo milk, it’s soft in the centre & pure heaven in your mouth.
Garbatella: This is a trendy & young area with lots of bars & restaurants. I love this suburb of Rome.
Coffee:
A highly offensive & controversial statement to Italians, but I’m not afraid to say it, Australia has the best coffee. This makes me picky when it comes to ‘good’ coffee. In Rome they have what’s called ‘specialty coffee’, which in Australia is just normal coffee. At these cafes you can find beautiful varieties of coffee, properly steamed milk (ooft, sorry) & oat milk.
Faro Cafe: Really good coffee near Termini, with a selection of pastries, including maritozzi. A popular spot where you’ll find both Romans & internationals enjoying their ‘specialty coffee’.
Marron Glace: Okay, I have to mention this place because it’s my ‘local’ when I stay in Rome, but it’s not in the centre. A coffee or ‘espresso’ here is just over €1. I go here every Saturday morning to have my Julia Roberts “Eat, Pray, Love” moment ordering my coffee. Standing at the bar, shoulder to shoulder with local Italians sipping my espresso, enjoying the loud and chaotic atmosphere of an Italian pasticceria on a weekend.
Shopping:
I don’t like large crowded shopping areas full of massive department & chain fashion stores, so I avoid places like Via Del Corso & opt for something a little quieter, albeit still bustling, with a bit more spunk.
Monti: This area is full of incredible vintage shops! I love this area. I often go shopping here, stopping for lunch at Mizio’s Street Food for a yummy focaccia.
Humana Vintage: There are two stores in Rome, both in Monti. Affordable & really fun, lots of colourful pieces with plenty of variety.
Vintage Market Roma: I LOVE this market. Each stall has incredible handpicked vintage. At the beginning of winter I scored an oversized wool coat, gorgeous brown suede jacket and a tan shearling jacket, each for €70.
My favourite thing to do in Rome - besides eat - is walk. I’ll spend entire days wandering from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, getting lost in Rome’s vast beauty and charm, discovering something new each time. Rome is a feast for all your senses!
Wandering:
Grab a takeaway spritz, get a little boozey & wander around the Coloseum, the Campitelli area with Trajan’s Market & over to Navona Square.
I love visiting Rome’s feast of churches. You don’t need to be religious to appreciate the architecture, opulence & powerful magnificence of Roman churches. One of my favourites is the French church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, home to some of Caravaggio’s stunning art.
The Apian Way: The oldest road in Rome connecting to Southern Italy, surrounded by lush greenery, boujee villas, ruins & catacombs. You can wander along this cobblestone road transporting yourself back thousands of years in time.
Hot tip: Go to the Trevi fountain late at night & you won’t find yourself a sardine amongst zillions of tourists. You can throw a coin into the fountain & make your wish in peace. The Trevi Fountain truly is spectacular & worth seeing.
I hope you have a gorgeous & gluttonous time in Rome, you hungry thing.
Ciao!